When homeowners notice cracks in your foundation along with doors and windows sticking many realize that they know nothing about these structural defects nor do they even know what their options are. Just knowing your options can lead many people to a solution that fits their home, situation and budget. Knowledge is power when it comes to the structural foundation repairs.

The chart below provides which foundation repair underpinning and wall support products are used across the country. This data is a cross section of information gathered over the past decade.

 

Contact your local foundation repair contractor or professional foundation engineer to find the best solution for your foundation problems.

 

 

Of the many projects New England Foundation and Stabilization Co. has reviewed and worked on, this small house is on the top of our list for the most severe settlement we have witnessed. Our company had reviewed this project several times under different owners until finally the settlement required repair of the structure or the city would declare it condemned. The entire perimeter of the structure had settled over years, but drastically along the front of the house. In some cases the structure had settled over 12 inches in less than a span of 12 feet. At one time, this neighborhood was a large dump site and the depth of fill in some areas exceeded 80 feet.

Large cracks were somewhat visible from the exterior and interior of the house. However a thin layer of fiberglass coating was parged onto the foundation to hide the deteriorating condition of the foundation to new buyers. The foundation had also rotated out from underneath the house up to 5”.

The interior of the structure also showed every significant sign of settlement in some of the most extreme conditions. From an extreme sloping floor, to sticking doors, floating walls, misaligned windows and frames, and cracked drywall.

The ECP Resistance and Helical Piles proved to be the perfect solution for this house. The Steel Piers are hydraulically pressed piles that fasten to the foundation and advance through the poor bearing soils that allowed the structure to settle. The Helical Piers are small “screw” piles that are torqued through the poor soils into good bearing strata. A total of 20 ECP Model 350 Piers were installed on the inside of the foundation wall. A total of 4 Helical Piles were installed for the new column supports at the beam. The average depth of the ECP Push Piers was 65 feet.

Once all the piers were installed the foundation was lifted using the ECP Resistance Piers. The center beam was also temporarily shored and lifted as we raised the foundation. Due to the concrete condition our lift was limited and a full restoration was not possible. However, in some areas we were able to achieve a lift of 8”. Once the foundation and beam was lifted, new columns were installed on the ECP Helical Piers. The foundation wall was also pushed back in effort to re-straighten the wall.

The owner of the property purchased it in hopes of restoring and flipping the house. His crews removed some areas of the horse hair plaster where cracks had occurred due to the large lift. They then re-plastered and refinished the interior finishes.

After several weeks completing the full renovation, this house was placed on the market. The new owners will be pleased to know that their foundation will no longer sink being guaranteed for 25 years by our manufacturer ECP Steel Pier System and New England Foundation and Stabilization Co.

 

 

 

Berklee College of Music was renovating two exsting buildings to make safety upgrades, including the installation of a new elevator. The project involved constructing several new foundations inside the buildings. Deep foundation support was required because this area of Boston was filled-in and the soils conditions were generally unfavorable for conventional spread footings.

Helical Piles: Engineered Foundation Technologies installed a total of 40 ECP helical piles to support the new loads. The pilings advanced through the poor fill soils and anchored into the Boston Clue Clay below. Pile lengths varied from about 18 feet deep to 28 feet deep.

EFT built a load frame and conducted a pile load test on a helical pier. This testing was done to confirm the performance of the helical pier system. The project was successfully completed in 10 working days.

 

 

 

One of the best options for homeowners to tackle the problem of a wet basement and water damage is by using a sump pump.  A heavy duty sump pump in a sealed sump pit positioned in a home’s basement will sends water out to a more acceptable location, like a sloped lawn or a municipal storm drain. This type of high efficiency sump pump and sealed sump pit or sump liner is designed as a reservoir for excess groundwater and rainwater.

The principles at work are pretty simple: rather than keeping water out completely, a sump pump system controls how water gathers beneath your home, then pumps it out after it’s collected, while preventing moisture levels in the home to rise.

If you’ve explored other ways of keeping your basement dry – examining the grading around your home, injecting cracks and repairing any noticeable leaks or broken pipes – and are still having trouble, it might be time to consider a sump pump system.

Remember, sump pumps don’t prevent water from accumulating, but they can go a long way in controlling water in your basement. Either way, your possessions stay dry and your family’s health is not compromised, which is the point.

Many homes already have sump pits built right into the basement floor.  The problem is most of them are inadequate and cause as many problems as they solve. If this is the case, you will need to have a basement waterproofing professional install a sealed sump pit, like the ECP Sealed Sump Basin. If your home is not equipped with a sump pit, a waterproofing contractor should be able to tell you if it’s possible to retrofit your basement.

 Types of Sump Pumps

There are three types of pumps used in basements or crawl spaces:

Pedestal Sump Pump: Also referred to as a “column type” or “upright” sump pump, the pedestal sump pump has an open motor that is supported on top of a column attached to the pump casing. When installed, the motor sits outside the sump and above the basement floor. The motor is not designed to be submerged in water. This type of sump pump system cannot be sealed.

Submersible Primary Sump Pump: This pump uses a watertight motor designed to be immersed in water, and will typically kick into action when it senses that it’s become submerged. The motor is coupled directly to the sump pump casing and is designed to be completely hidden within a sealed sump pit.

Primary Sump Pump with Battery Backup: Submersible primary sump pumps with a DC battery backup pump provide the ultimate protection to homes. During heavy storms, when sump pumps are needed the most, electrical power can go out. In this case the sump pump becomes useless due to lack of power. When equipped with a battery backup, your sump pump system can continue to provide protection to your home.

A Working System

So what does a functioning high quality sump pump system look like? There are usually four key pieces:

·         A Primary Pump

·         An Emergency Backup Pump

·         An Emergency Backup Pump Alarm

·         A Sealed Sump Pit

Because homes sometimes lose power during thunderstorms – just when an operational sump pump is critical – a quality sump system employs a backup pump. Emergency battery backup pumps work when the power goes out, when the primary pump does not remove the water fast enough, or if the primary sump pump fails.

In this setup, primary pumps are powered with electricity, and backup pumps are battery powered. Using two pumps instead of one makes it unlikely that both pumps will malfunction at the same time. And with the alarm system, you’ll be able to tell when the primary pump has failed and the backup pump has to be used.

Is A Sump Pump Right For You?

Installing a new sump pump system – especially if your basement doesn’t already have a built-in sealed sump pit – is an extensive, complex job. Make sure you consult with a waterproofing expert.

 To find out more about particular pumps for your basement, or to check if a certain pump is certified, consult the Sump & Sewage Pump Manufacturers Association.

 

Expansive soils are known to be present in every US state and throughout the world. Every year expansive soils contribute to billions of dollars in damage to homes. In a typical year expansive soils cause greater financial loss to property owners than earthquakes, floods, hurricanes and tornados combined. The proper design and care of your foundation is very important to preserving the integrity of your home.

 Foundation watering through the use of soaker hoses has become very important in an attempt to preserve the integrity of your home. Some clayey soils have the ability to shrink or expand at alarming rates, depending on the moisture content of the soil and weather patterns. The goal for proper foundation maintenance should be to maintain a consistent level of moisture in the soil thus eliminating swelling and shrinking of the soil that is supporting your foundation.

 If the soil around the exterior of the home becomes excessively dry, it will shrink leaving a gap between the soil and the foundation. These cracks allow additional evaporation and more cracking deeper in the soil. When heavy rains happen, these cracks allow excessive amounts of water to penetrate soil layers causing swelling of the clay soils that are intended to support the foundation. This rapid expansion can cause settlement, foundation cracking, drywall cracking and the need for foundation repairs.

 The lack of uniform moisture levels can be caused by:

                  1.       Neglect

                  2.       Lack of guttering on the home

                  3.       Improper drainage

                  4.       Plumbing leaks

                  5.       Improper grading

                  6.       Excessive watering

                  7.       Trees too near the foundation

 Expansive soils, combined with a shallow foundation, creates a scenario that can manifest itself into major foundation problems. Shallow foundations (foundations very near the surface) rest upon soils that are greatly influenced by rain and ambient temperatures. These foundations become highly susceptible to movement which causes cracking and structural damage. Opposed to deep foundations (foundations that are set below the zone of influence), shallow foundations are cheaper and account for the greatest financial losses due to foundation repairs and structural failures.

 Deep foundations penetrate expansive soils providing support for a structure without being effected by shrinking and swelling clay soils. These foundations are most effective when used during initial construction but can also be retrofitted using a high quality end bearing foundation repair system. End bearing is the key here. Foundation repair systems that rely on skin friction fail very quickly when soils dry out and separate from the pile. Deep cracks in the soil are a sign that a skin friction pile has become unsuitable. The highest quality foundation repair systems use slender steel shafts that drive deeply to load bearing soils or rock. Being slender in nature these piles allow expansive clay soils to move around the shaft without negative effects.

To summarize, the expansive clay soils are generally not the problem. The foundation design or foundation repair design is generally the problem. Simply adding water around the foundation most likely will only affect the upper most soil layers which does not solve the problem. Water must be deeply injected into the soil in a wide radius around the foundation to help maintain a consistent soil moisture level. This is generally unfeasible due to the huge amount of water required in dry seasons.

The most effective solution to foundations in expansive soil areas is through professional design. A deep foundation along with proper guttering, grading and landscaping will create an effective foundation for homes and commercial buildings alike without the concern of structural cracking and foundation repair work.

  For existing homes:

      1.       Maintain guttering around the perimeter of the home

      2.       Direct downspouts at least 10’ from foundation

      3.       Create proper grading around the home

      4.        Remove trees and large shrubs that are within 15’ of structure

      5.       Maintain plumbing pipes beneath foundation

      6.       Use only high quality end bearing foundation repair techniques

The swelling and shrinking of expansive clay soils create serious problems in shallow foundations throughout the United States. Differences in performance of foundations arise from differences in design and the extent of disturbance of natural conditions. Methods of identifying potentially troublesome conditions and various foundation and foundation repair design to cope with these problems are now available to foundation specialists. Soaker hoses alone will not solve your problem, a trained foundation specialist is generally required.

 

 

What is basement wall grade carbon fiber? We have all heard of it being used for race cars, NASA and tennis rackets, but basement wall reinforcement? Why would it be used in foundation repair applications?

Carbon fiber is lightweight, noncorrosive and virtually impossible to stretch. With a tensile strength of more than 350,000 psi makes it up to 10 times stronger than steel. Accordingly, high quality carbon fiber provides an alternative to such intrusive methods as installing steel beams with heavy equipment to brace and shore up foundation walls: no digging, jack hammering, moving utilities and duct work are required.

A foundation's structural integrity becomes compromised when hydrostatic and lateral earth pressures exceed the strength of a concrete or masonry wall. As lateral pressures press upon the foundation, basement or crawlspace walls bow inward. It’s effectiveness in counteracting such tendencies is based on standard engineering principles following Hookes law and a linear stress/strain relationship. For every action there is a reaction, the action is the soil pressing on the basement wall and the reaction is the carbon fiber applying a resistant force, making the wall stronger to help eliminate shifting, cracking and bowing.

One of the other big benefits of carbon fiber is its ease of use and aesthetics. You will not have I-beams lined across the basement wall. The thin layer of carbon fiber material can be painted over without creating an eye sore. Duct work and plumbing penetrations can be left alone due to its flexible nature.

In most residential situations where bowing basement walls occur there are several sets of forces which interact to cause the problem. The largest mobilizing force is the addition of lateral earth pressure (soil forces) in conjunction with hydrostatic pressure (water forces). These forces put a horizontal load on the wall which in turn creates a large amount of bending stresses on the masonry or concrete. The bending stress creates an unbalanced condition within the wall due to the very low tensile capacity of concrete and masonry, causing horizontal cracking in the structure. The weight of the structure above the wall helps generate a stabilizing compressive force on the wall until the lateral deflections become too large. As the wall deflects beyond the "center of mass" of the above structure a phenomenon known as the "beam-column effect" creates additional bending stresses on the damaged wall, speeding up deterioration. Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polymers (CFRP's) provide the required additional tensile force needed to fully develop the compressive strength and create a "balanced" situation within the wall to prevent further bowing and cracking. 

ECP Carbon Fiber products provide our customers with a durable, high strength, and aesthetically appealing fix to the common problem of bowing basement walls. The repairs are waterproof and can enhance the flexural capacity of steel reinforced and un-reinforced masonry walls the original capacity. The high stiffness of these Carbon-based products can stop lateral wall movement virtually instantaneously without the problems associated with steel alternatives including corrosion, aesthetics, obstructions, and lower strength capacities. The epoxy polymers used to bond the Carbon fiber systems to your basement wall have been successfully tested over 20,000 hours of continual exposure to resist chemicals, temperatures, and moisture much more aggressive than typical basement environments assuring a long-term repair.

 

 

When it comes to residential foundation repairs, the number one question asked is - How much does it cost?

Many of us also think about our home that is in need foundation repairs and think of how much of a hassle it can be to have it repaired. The first step is early detection. At the first sign of damage you should contact a foundation repair contractor right away for an inspection and repair cost estimate. Foundation problems do not go away, they will not fix themselves. You first must have the foundation inspected and the damage assessed by a professional before supplemental damage occurs.

How do they come up with an estimate?

Foundation repair contractors and professional foundation engineers take many factors into consideration when assessing your foundation for repair. After the initial inspection, they will gather the facts, decide on a mode of repair and determine how long it will take to fix the foundation. With this information in hand the foundation professional will then review outside factors that may influence the repair. These factors include the weather, driveways or patios, landscaping, street creep as well as the slope of the land surrounding the homes foundation.

Before committing to a foundation repair contractor, you should get some references from other homeowners and preferably the engineering community. Simply getting three estimates and accepting the cheapest may not always be in your best interest. Generally your home is your most valuable asset and should be treated as such. The type of foundation repair materials and the contractors experience and reputation should weigh heavily in your decision making process. Sometimes it will be worth it to pay more in order to get a better quality job and often times your long term costs will decline with this approach. Remember, it will cost you more to have the job redone due to inferior work. Another factor that will determine the cost is the area in which the damage is located. Certain locations of the foundation will cost more to repair than others.

Foundation repairs do not have to cost a lot of money. Yes, they can be expensive but, if you catch the problem early you will generally save some money. Many foundation repair contractors offer payment plans or Same-as-Cash financing to help relieve the burden of major repairs. Home equity loans are another source of monies to spread the burden over time.

So, how much does foundation repairs cost? Well that is like asking how much does an airline ticket cost. It depends of when, where, why and how. Do your research and then contact a foundation repair contractor or foundation engineer and they will help you answer this question for you and your home.

 

 

Olathe, KS., May 9, 2011 – Earth Contact Products is pleased to introduce Zoeller Sump Pumps as their latest addition to their basement waterproofing product line. Zoeller Company, the oldest independently owned U.S. pump manufacturer, continues to maintain the highest of quality standards, setting the benchmark for all other manufacturers of pumps. The combination of ECP and Zoeller gives basement waterproofing companies the ability to purchase premium products from the leading source of basement repair products.

All Zoeller pumps are time tested and quality driven. Their submersible pumps are 100% factory tested underwater for dependability from the instant they're plugged in.

Earth Contact Products, which is a manufacturer and distributor of foundation repair and basement waterproofing products, is now bringing customers one of the most well-known and reliable sump pumps in the industry.  Zoeller Pump Company, the oldest independently owned U.S. pump manufacturer, continues to maintain the highest of quality standards, setting the benchmark for all other manufacturers of sump pumps.

Earth Contact Products will offer a variety of Zoeller pumps that will include, the 1/3 hp M53, the ½ hp M98, the Basement Sentry I battery back-up and the ProPak 53 primary and battery back-up prepackaged system.“No other sump pump name is more recognizable than the Zoeller,” said Jeff Tully, General Manager of Earth Contact Products.  “We believe that working with Zoeller pumps will give us an advantage over our competition.”

 

 

Tips to help determine the cause of diagonal foundation cracks in basements:

In building corners in cold climates - frost heave, shallow footings, water problem, or poor backfill. In a raised ranch with a garage located in part of the basement, often you will find step cracks in the front and rear foundation walls on the garage-end of the home. These cracks may correspond to some related observations:

(1) If a downspout or gutter spills rain water against the home, these forces will often combine to make more severe frost cracks appear on the garage side of the home.  

(2) There may be less backfill against the front and rear foundation walls at the front of the garage.

(3) The decrease in backfill combined with an un-heated garage may expose these building corners to more frost damage

In the foundation wall anywhere, wider at bottom than top – often due to foundation settlement.

From corner towards adjacent opening, wider at top than bottom - often due to foundation settlement, expansive clay soil, frost damage, or damage from a shrub/tree close to the foundation wall.

Under a ground floor window, from sill to ground, sill bowed up - often due to foundation heave, clay soil, frost, shallow or missing footings.

Over a window or door, straight or diagonal - may appear as horizontal along top or bottom of header, vertical at ends of header (possibly due to differences in thermal expansion of different materials of header vs. wall) or vertical/diagonal at center of header (loading failure) or at corners (possible point-load failure)

Cracks in a poured concrete basement walls which are diagonal or vertical and which are generally uniform in width, or which taper to an irregular hairline form, usually in fact a discontinuous crack in the hairline area, are usually shrinkage cracks and should not be ongoing nor of structural problem, though they may invite water entry through the wall.

 

 

In the trying times of a recession, one doesn’t like to spend money on non-essential items.  Having your foundation repaired is an essential item, buying a new 50” Flat Screen TV on sale is a non-essential item.  Foundation problems do not fix themselves.  The signs of foundation problems might leave as the season change, but will return with greater possibilities of more damage.   Therefore, how can a homeowner receive an “Economical Foundation Repair”?  This can be accomplished by following four easy steps:  Hire a Professional  Engineer, Follow Recommendations of the Professional Engineer, Hire a Professional Contractor, Proper drainage.

1.       Hire a Professional Engineer:

Why do you need a professional engineer?  You want a professional engineer first to look and assess your foundation problems. This will explain why it has happened and how to fix the problem.  Therefore, when it is time to solicit bids for your project all contractors need to bid what is required by the professional engineer.   How do you find a professional engineer?  Search www.foundationengineersnetwork.com   or  your yellowpages book for the heading Engineers, from here look under subheadings for Structural. 

 

2.       Follow recommendations of the professional engineer: 

Engineers are not doing work for the sake of doing work.  They have been trained in school as well as in the field of what is right or what is wrong.  How much experience do you have?  The recommendations should be carried out, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t question the reason why.  A good professional engineer will explain the reasons for the recommendations.   He or she is only looking out for the safety of you the customer and your home.

 

3.       Hire a professional contractor:

When hiring a professional contractor ask your professional engineer for referrals to call.  Get a couple quotes on the exact work the engineer has requested to be done. Make sure your contractor is licensed and insured with referrals of similar work.  Review and have the contractor explain all work he is quote.

 

4.       Proper Drainage:

After all work is completed, make sure you have the correct drainage completed.  This might involve new gutters, down spots, French drains, or foot drain and sump pumps.  The major contributing factor to foundation problems is water.  Make sure you get water away from you foundation as quickly as it appears.  If you take the steps in proper drainage you could save money down the road from having to get other parts of your foundation repaired.

 

In conclusion, as a homeowner, to get an economical foundation repair one must get a professional engineer involved.  This will save you time and money in the long run by fixing your foundation correctly the first time.  The contractor you have chosen should complete the work required by the engineer.  Then it is your obligation as a homeowner to make sure your house has the correct drainage.  If you have questions on the correct drainage, be sure to ask your structural engineer. If one follows the 4 steps mentioned your success rate of economical foundation repair can be achieved; as well as, preventing future foundation problems elsewhere in your home.   After your home has been repaired in the most economical fashion you then can go out and purchase a new flat screen TV to enjoy in your structurally sound home.

 

 

There are few home projects that could be more important and potentially costly for your home than installing a basement waterproofing system. Basement remodeling projects are expensive for a reason: water damage can lead to some very steep repair costs and can significantly lower the value of your home and potentially causing health issues for your family.

Although homeowners from all areas of the country need to be concerned with proper foundation drainage, it is especially important in the Springtime, when heavy rainfall puts more stress on basement walls.   Cracks, dampness and mold on and in basement walls is primarily due to a phenomenon called hydrostatic pressure, which increases as the surrounding ground becomes saturated with rainwater. Saturated soil is much heavier than dry soil, which causes undesigned pressures on basement walls.

A good basement waterproofing system will allow excess water to be channeled away from your home's foundation, thus reducing the amount of hydrostatic pressure on your walls.  This is done using perforated footing drains, which run around the perimeter of the home and deposit excess water in a sump pit or daylighted away from the foundation.Many types of basement waterproofing systems can be installed in or around your home, and they are generally differentiated by internal and external functions.  Internal basement waterproofing systems can fix visible problems such as moist walls or mold, but they are much less effective at eliminating hydrostatic pressure than external waterproofing systems. 

While exterior systems can be more invasive, they are the one true form of waterproofing.When considering a basement waterproofing system, make sure that you get an estimate on a complete solutions, opposed to a Bandaid.  While internal basement waterproofing can be effective for many basement water problems, you should also consider proper maintenance for your footing drains and external drainage system as well.  While it may cost more to excavate and replace footing drains, it adds significant equity to the value of your home, and may stave off a potentially expensive flood or foundation repairs.

 

 

When it comes to draining water from around and under basements there is a single preferred method and a whole host of less desirable methods. This preferred method is named many things but has a few basic elements that engineers and professional waterproofing contractors prefer.

1.       Sealed System

2.       Pitched Drain Piping

3.       Cold Joint Drainage

4.       Below Slab Drainage

First of all, any plumbing system must be sealed from the living area to prevent increasing humidity levels which can lead to mold growth, higher radon levels and bacteria growth. This can be seen in many older homes which have a damp and musty cellar smell due to poor drainage and open cavities in floors and walls.

Secondly, any plumbing system must be based on the simple principal that water, among other things, flows downhill. Without positive slope, pitch, water will sit in place opposed to flowing downhill to a collection point where it can be directed away from the foundation.

Next, water enters a basement from a path of least resistance. Often times this path is the cold joint between the footing and wall. Water can migrate through this joint due to pressure caused by the downward force that saturated soils place on the footing.

Lastly, interior drainage systems must remove water from beneath the basement floor. As many homeowners know, basement floors become cracked due to water that is trapped below the concrete floor. This trapped water is constantly looking for a path of escape and can crack a concrete floor very easily.

So with this information in hand it becomes very simple to determine the best interior basement drainage system. The system must be closed, or sealed from the living space. This will include a sealed sump pit and sealed piping system that is laid around the perimeter of the basement walls. Many systems have open backs designed to capture water that is running down the walls. These open back systems will capture wall water but remember if things can get in they can also get out. These open backed systems allow water vapor and radon an easy path to your living space. Closed or sealed systems prevent this phenomenon from happening by their very nature of being sealed from living spaces.

Open backed systems have another primary fault and that is the fact that they are laid on top of the footing. Concrete footings are poured flat so that the basement walls can be poured or laid upon a flat surface. Any drainage system that is laid on top of the footing cannot be pitched to drain the water that they collect. The water sits in these systems promoting mold and bacteria growth which can cause clogging and health concerns. Also, if you place drainage pipe, along with a bed of clean gravel, next to the footing you will gather the water before it comes in contact with the basement floor. By doing this you can prevent floor heaving and cracking. Open backed systems that sit on top of footings must have the water rise above the bottom of the concrete floor before they can accept any water. Closed systems allow water to enter much earlier and since they are next to the footing they can be pitched toward a sump pit for collection and discharge.

Before you contract any waterproofing company to solve your basement moisture problem keep the above items in mind and demand that the proper techniques are used. Now that you know what must be included with your new basement drainage system, ask questions and do not be fooled by their slick answers.

 

 

From a distance, helical anchors from manufacturer to manufacturer look similar, but are they? In simplest terms – No they are not the same. As a matter of fact, there can be huge differences in helical anchors. Some suppliers use old oilfield pipe (known as J55 pipe) and this can make a huge difference in longevity and structural safety of the helical anchor.

First of all, the used oilfield pipe available for the helical anchor market is pipe that is deemed no longer fit to be used in the oil rig. With the high oil prices and the pipe shortages, the oil rig operators are wearing it out before they sell it.

Let's talk about salt water in oil production. Most of the existing wells in Texas, Oklahoma and the Midwest are classified as stripper wells. These are wells that produce a 90% / 10% mix of fluid on a daily basis. This means that if the well produces 10 barrels of oil a day, it also produces 90 barrels of saltwater per day. The affects of saltwater on steel pipe does not need explanation. Furthermore, periodically, acid is drawn down the wells to help the flow of fluids into the well bore. Once again, not much explanation needed.

Last but not least, the most destructive effect on oil field pipe is known as rod wear. Inside the oilfield pipe, which is known as drill stem, are the sucker rods. Now very quickly, a brief lesson on oil production. The pumping unit sits on the surface. Attached to the horse head on the pumping unit is the bridle. Attached to the bridle is the polish rod. Attached to the polish rod are the sucker rods. Down deep in the hole is the rod pump. To pump this fluid (saltwater & oil) out of the hole, the horse head, the polish rod, the sucker rods and the pump have to go up & down constantly. These rods, going down through this pipe are rubbing against something and that something is the used casing pipe (J55 pipe). Oilfield operators generally will not stop using this pipe until they have determined that 30% or more of the wall thickness is gone.

To spell it out, these super hard rods, rubbing constantly against the casing pipe, causes some very thin spots inside the pipe. So, pipe that was nice and thick when it was new, has salt-water corrosion, acid corrosion and very thin spots due to "rod wear". Does this sound like pipe that should be used to manufacture helical anchors that provide structural support?

Obviously not all helical anchors are the same. Manufacturers that use old oilfield pipe may be putting your structure at risk. Why would they do this? Cost is the only reason. New structural steel pipe cost a bit more but is certified to specifications and is designed to provide years of structural support. Not all helical anchors are the same, as a matter of fact, there are major differences between helical anchors.

 

 

 

With the winter weather that most of the country is now experiencing many homeowners are finding out the hard way that sump pump discharge lines can freeze, especially in the northern regions. With snow and ice building up outside of homes, sump pumps cannot run effectively unless they are designed correctly. When sump pump systems freeze, your basement and everything in it can be in jeopardy.

Sump pump discharge lines can become covered with snow and ice in the winter, causing frozen pipes and backed up sump pump systems.  Frozen sump pump discharge lines can spell disaster for your basement and the belongings that you store.

Professional waterproofing experts prevent sump pump freezing with the ECP Sump Pump Freeze Guard. The freeze guard system allows water to escape from your sump pump discharge line if the underground discharge pipe freezes or becomes blocked for any reason. No matter if the pipe outlet is buried under a foot of ice and snow, the water can escape, allowing your sump pump to keep your basement safe from flooding. When the discharge pipe thaws, the water will automatically run through the buried discharge line. The system is simple and very effective in protecting your basement from frozen sump pump systems.

The Correct Way vs. The Easy Way

 

As the economy slowly starts to come back to life, a trend is emerging in the manufacturing and service industries.  That trend is higher quality goods and services, giving your end user more for their money.  That trend is everywhere, and needs to be discussed how it relates to the basement waterproofing business.   Are you offering the best products and systems, or just an easy way to get a job done?  It’s no longer 2007.  The blow-and-go, do whatever it takes to get to the next job attitude has to change as well. 

Let’s look at interior basement waterproofing.  There are many companies out there offering many different waterproofing systems.  A lot of these companies are offering an interior drainage system that sits on top of the footing.  Is a drainage system that sits on top of the footing the correct way to waterproof a basement, or just the easiest?  Simply, it’s the easiest way, not the correct way.  There are too many problems with top of the footing drainage systems.  For example: footings are level, placing a drain system on a flat surface doesn’t allow for proper drainage, hydrostatic pressure build-up under the basement slab will reach the bottom of the slab before a top of footing systems will work causing unnecessary pressure on the floor, top of the footing systems also leave a very thin layer of concrete over the top of the track when the installation is complete, usually less than 2”.  Top of the footing drainage systems only benefit the contractor.

The correct placement of an interior drainage system is next to the footing.  Placed there, you can put the proper amount of fall in your pipe.  The pipe is 4”-6” below the slab, eliminating hydrostatic pressure build-up before it gets to the slab and when the system is installed correctly, concrete can be poured back at the full slab depth.  And most importantly, this type of system is building code approved.  This is the proper placement of a drainage system to give the most benefit to the customer.

Top of the footing track systems look good, but do they function well?  Likely, not well enough.  What are you giving your customer? 

 

Foundation repair is defined as: the art of underpinning or stabilizing a structure that has moved from its originally constructed design. To underpin a home or structure one must extend the current foundation into a soil strata or layer that is deeper and more stable than the current soil that the foundation is resting upon. This is accomplished by providing additional support from the current footing or wall via piers, piles or anchors. Methods of foundation repairs include push piers, wall plate anchors, helical anchors or piers and concrete piles.

Those responsible for designing and instituting these methods include foundation engineers and professional foundation repair contractors. A foundation engineer is responsible to evaluate the structure in question and then provide a proposal for his design. Generally an engineer will recommend a foundation repair contractor to carry out his proposed plan for repair and then sign off on this plan upon the completion of fixing your foundation problem. While it is not always legally necessary for an engineer to be involved it is highly recommended anytime structural repairs are performed.

Poor soil conditions are the result of several primary factors. With suitable building sites becoming more scarce many home builders have been building houses on less than ideal lots. These subpar lots have less than suitable soil conditions to support many structures. There are also homes built on expansive soils that shrink and swell as rainfall and moisture levels change. Due to these conditions foundation support products must be utilized to supply support from deeper layers that are not as affected by fluctuating moisture levels. Underpinning provides a system to lift the home to an acceptable level and prevent additional settlement or movement.

Concrete slab on grade or pier and beam foundations are the most susceptible to weak or expanding clay soils. Due to the nature of having a large surface area resting on the uppermost soil layers these foundations have a tendency to move as the soil moves. Most concrete slab on grade homes are monolithically poured with the slab and beams cast together creating a rigid foundation. This rigid foundation becomes susceptible to differential settlement when moisture levels under the slab do not remain consistent. This can result from broken water lines, poor drainage or even inadequate guttering. Trees can also affect soils by their roots drying out areas under these slabs while the rest of the slab has normal moisture levels.

Differential soil or foundation settlement causes slab on grade foundations to rise on the perimeter or fall around the perimeter. Steel push piers and helical piers are generally an engineer’s recommended solution for these conditions. These piers penetrate through unstable soils down to a more consistent soil layer that has adequate strength to support the structure. These piering systems provide a deep foundation that can now be used to lift the foundation and to regain lost elevation levels.

In the case of homes with basements, expansive clay soils that have been over saturated with water can cause hydrostatic pressure on walls. This newly imposed pressure can cause wall bowing and concrete cracking. In extreme cases, catastrophic failure can occur from these wall stresses. When basement homes are originally designed it is with normal moisture content. Poor drainage often causes undue pressure to build behind basement walls exerting forces on the basement foundation. This is often the source of concrete cracking and water to infiltrate the space. Once again it is generally the differential movement that causes the foundation repair problem.

There are two common methods of fixing bowed basement walls. Plate Anchors (wall anchors) are an effective solution for many homes. These wall anchors are imbedded into competent soils beyond a zone of influence surrounding the structure. Threaded rods are then connected to these anchors on one end with the opposite end being attached to a wall plate inside the basement. With this system total excavation is not required and because of this additional soil load, wall recovery is accomplished over time with continued tightening of the anchor rods.

Next, there are helical tiebacks. This system of basement or retaining wall anchoring involves the complete excavation of the affected area. Helical anchors are screwed into the soil hydraulically, and then attached with a wall plate situated inside the basement wall. With the full excavation the wall can be instantaneously pulled back to plumb. The helical anchor can resist very heavy loads due to their design and the fact of their installation force equates to their resisting force.

The art of underpinning or stabilizing a structure that has moved from its originally constructed design must be performed by foundation repair expert under the guidance of professional engineers.

 

 

Repairing potential foundation problems should be a priority for every homeowner. Foundation repairs prevent little problems from becoming bigger, keep your home safe, and protect the value of your property. Fortunately, foundation problems tend to develop and worsen slowly, giving you time to make a thorough evaluation and decide on the proper action for the repairs.

Foundation Cracks

Foundation wall cracks that are less than .064” wide typically do not leak. Any crack repair performed on these cracks is cosmetic only. Larger foundation cracks or ruptures do need to be addressed. These cracks are signs that you have, or had, foundation movement.Each type of crack gives you a clue to what is happening with your foundation. Stair step cracks, cracks that follow the grout lines between blocks or bricks, generally indicate settlement. Cracks that are wider at the top also indicate settlement. Horizontal cracks generally indicate bowing or inward movement. Repairing cracks and patching cracks should not be confused. Patching a crack is merely Band-Aiding a possible problem. Crack repair is much more involved and require special training and specialized equipment. Before structural crack repairs are performed contact a professional engineer for guidance.

Foundation Drainage

A common culprit is water accumulation in the soil around the foundation, which expands the soil and puts pressure on walls and foundation footings, causing cracks to appear. Check to make sure all gutters and downspout drains are in good working order, and that the soil around your foundation is properly graded—it should slope at least 6 inches for every 10 horizontal feet.

Most foundations are required to have a perimeter drain system that channels sub-surface water away from the foundation. The drain system is made of concrete tiles or perforated plastic pipe buried in a gravel bed. It usually drains externally (a pipe that opens onto a low spot in your yard), or connects to your sewer system.

It’s possible for this drain to become blocked, causing water to accumulate in the soil and putting pressure on your foundation walls. If you suspect a blocked perimeter foundation drain, seek the advice of a licensed foundation contractor. 

Buckled or Bowing Walls

A foundation wall that has tipped, bowed, or severely cracked requires substantial reinforcement to prevent further deterioration. Repairing basement walls from the inside is usually accomplished carbon-fiber mesh or wall anchors spaced 4-6 feet apart along the entire wall.

Carbon fiber wall repair involves placing vertical strips of high strength carbon fiber in a bed of an epoxy compound. These carbon fiber strips will strengthen the wall far beyond its original strength. While it will not straighten a wall, carbon fiber repair will greatly strengthen basement walls that have not bowed more than 2”.

Wall plate anchors are also strengthen basement walls along with being able to straighten them. They consist of metal plates placed in your yard (installed by excavating), and metal wall plates on the inside of your foundation walls The plates are connected by steel rods that can be tightened to pull the wall back outward. Helical tieback anchors perform the same functions as wall plate anchors. Helical anchors have tremendous strength and require engineering calculations to install correctly. The largest difference between helical tieback and wall anchors is the amount of excavating required. Helical tiebacks require full excavation on the outside of the basement wall opposed to wall anchors that only requires spot excavation.

Foundations and Expansive Soils

If your house is out of level and there is no obvious reason, it may sit on soil that expands when damp and shrinks when dry. This so-called “expansive soil” is found in all states and has damaged about a quarter of all houses in the U.S., according to the American Society of Civil Engineers. If you suspect you have the problem, check with your local building authority to see if expansive soils exist in your area.

Dealing with this kind of soil is most difficult if you have a slab foundation because access beneath the slab is limited. The first remediation is to reduce moisture fluctuations of the soil around and under your home. Making sure soil slopes away from the house, and draining away all gutter and downspout water is necessary.
 

Professional Engineering

Trustworthy advice comes from a professional engineer. An initial visit should reveal the severity of your problem and tell you what to do next. In the end, you should get a written report that makes specific recommendations and lays out pros and cons of each option. If you need a complicated fix, you might want to hire the engineer by the hour to inspect while work is underway.

 

Reprinted from Ezine Articles.com

By: Patrick Donlea  United Structural Systems

 

 

 

Understanding all foundation repair or underpinning methods will help with your decision when deciding upon a foundation repair contractor. Some unscrupulous foundation repair contractors advertise that they can put in every type of piering system. Professional contractors concentrate on just one or two piering methods and master them. The contractors that claim to be a “jack of all trades” usually are the master of none. They generally take short cuts and due to the fact that they are not thoroughly trained in each specific method. Professional foundation repair contractors that pick a system or two and stick with it generally can master the methods and provide a better quality job. They may not have the answer for every situation but they will generally provide better quality work on the jobs that they accept. They are also more likely to be recommended by professional engineers. If an engineer is putting his reputation on the line they generally will recommend professioanl underpinning contractors to perform the work they specify.

Knowing the positives and negatives of each foundation repair system is one more step in getting a job well done. All commonly accepted methods have their place or application where they shine. Some methods, like steel push piers and helical anchors, are more adaptable to unique situations, yet even they have their limitations. Using the correct method for your particular application is the difference between a job well done and job that is less than satisfactory.

Steel push piers have an advantage over most systems in the fact that they are individually tested as they are installed. Professional underpinning contractors will monitor and record pressure readings and then compare them withstructural weights to determine capacities. They will also use a manifold lifting system to perform any lifting required to make sure that the lift does not put any undue pressure on the structure. Professioanl engineers prefer manifold lifting systems espeecially high pressure (10,000psi) systems that can be controlled from a single place.

Helical pier systems are another very popular system recommended by many professioanl engineers. Helical pier are "screwed" in the soil using a helical gear motor or torque motor. Once again pressures and torque reading are montiored and recorded to establish capacities. Without carefully monitoring these reading a verifiable capacity cannot be assumed. Professioanl engineers generally want to review these readings to verify that the helical piers have reached soil layers that can support the structure. Manifold lifting systems are once again the preffered method of lifting.

Simply, homeowners need to ask questions of engineers and underpinning contractors before choosing a contractor. Stay away from the jack of all trades and also be wary of the contractor who does not use a manifod lifting system. Many of these contractors use simple bottle jacks in their attempt to lift structures. These are all simple clues that you need to keep looking for a professional contractor to work on your most valuable asset, your home. As always hiring a independent professional engineer is the best course of action before any foundation repairs are started.

 

French drains, a form of subsurface drain, utilizes a buried perforated pipe installed in a gravel bed with a geo-textile fabric envelope lining the trench. Water from the surrounding soil enters the gravel bed, flows into the drain pipe and utilizes gravity to flow towards the discharge point.

The three most frequently used type of french drain pipe systems for residential and commercial applications are smooth sewer and drain pipe, corrugated plastic pipe and poly drain pipe. Smooth wall sewer and drain pipe is rigid and manufactured from PVC or Polyethylene. Due to its rigid nature it is easier to maintain a continuous slope in critical areas by spanning over uneven trenches. Corugated pipe is manufactured from high density polyethylene and is available in 10' - 250' rolls. Since corrugated pipe is flexible, it can follow contours of the ground and wrap around corners without couplings or elbows. Poly drian pipe (EZ-Flow) is a self contained french drain system that combines corrugated pipe with a poly aggregate wrapped in geo-fabric. This system eliminates the need for gravel sepaate geo-textile cloth.

Each of the above mentioned drain pipe systems have perforations or slits to allow water in and directing this water down stream to a discharge point. Discharge points can be grates, drywells or popup emitters. French drains are the most common method for evacuating excess ground water which has infiltrated into the soil. If the gravel is run to the top of the trench you can also direct surface water down through the aggregate to the pipe system preventing water in unwanted areas such as near foundations or across patios and sidewalks.

A well designed and installed french drain system can prevent foundation repairs and basement flooding. By stopping surface and ground water from comng into contact with foundation components, basements will stay dry and foundations will rremain more stable. Understanding water flow and pipe capacities are key components to a well designed french drain system. Many foundation repair and basement waterproofing contractors have been trained to diagnose and solve ground water issues, but it is always advisable to consult with a professional engineer when dealing with foundation issues.

 

Many homeowners never think about their sump pump except when it is raining. Neglecting your sump pump can lead to basement flooding and foundation repair problems.

Recently, Earth Contact Products tested leading sump pumps side by side to test efficiency and performance. One of these tests pitted the ECP BSP-50 against a leading competitor for a one minute performance test. The test can be seen on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiXTSbCJpio .

Sump pump performance becomes evident during periods of heavy rains. While other sump pumps cannot keep up with heavy rains, ECP sump pumps have upto 50% more capacity while using less electricity. When combined with an efficient sump pit these sump pumps even become more efficient by eliminating short cycling. You can find even more information about ECP's lineup of sump pumps at their website http://www.earthcontactproducts.com/SUMP_PUMP.asp .

Earth Contact Products is known as the leading supplier of foundation repair and waterproofing products in the industry. Their extensive testing and engineering allows them to deliver the highest quality products to their contractors who serve homeowners throughout the United States.

 

The following article is from KansasCity.com by Alan Goforth

Though homeowners are finally getting a break as summer nears its end, they might be in for an unpleasant surprise when they take a closer look at their driveways, sidewalks or patios.

“We are looking at a lot more work than we usually do,” said Rob Kramer, owner of KC Pro, a foundation repair company in Kansas City. “Although we do repair work year-round, we generally see more business when it’s dry and the soils have drawn down.”

The always-changing climate in the Kansas City area is tough on concrete, said Perry Hochkammer, owner of Black-Jack Grout Pumps in Rockford, Ill., and president of the American Pressure Grouting and Mudjacking Association.

“Parts of the country with cycles of freezing and thawing always see the most problems,” he said.

A cost-effective solution to settling concrete is a simple process with an interesting name — mudjacking. Workers drill 2-inch to 5-inch holes into slabs of concrete that have settled and pump in a mixture that can include topsoil, lime ash and portland cement. This mixture both fills the voids and raises the slab to its original level. After the surface is leveled, the drill holes are filled with concrete.

The term “mudjacking” may be a bit misleading, said Dennis Morgan, owner of Pro Foundation Technology Inc., which has locations in Raytown and Columbia. The company was founded in 1978 and has been doing mudjacking since 1990.

“We should use a different term than mudjacking, but that is what most people recognize,” he said. “It should be slab jacking. We don’t use mud anymore but a mixture of lime and portland cement.”

The term made sense when the process was developed nearly four decades ago, Hochkammer said.

“Workers initially used hot asphalt and then switched to a black topsoil blend,” he said. “Over the years, organic material such as topsoil and mud begin to break down. Now we use more stable materials such as lime ash and portland cement.”

KC Pro uses a slurry of pulverized topsoil and portland cement, said Kramer, who has 17 years of repair experience. The slurry is thickened as needed. Pro Foundation Technology also has been working with a high-density polyurethane on projects for the Missouri and Kansas transportation departments.

“Polyurethane does the same thing but lasts longer,” Morgan said. “It’s very light and doesn’t burden the soil as much. Some homeowners also are starting to use it, although it costs a little more. Smaller holes are required, which is an advantage if you are working on a nice patio, for example.”

The slow economy has helped the mudjacking business, with customers finding it more economical to repair than replace damaged concrete.

“Typically, when the economy is faltering, mudjacking is a good alternative to replacement for municipalities and homeowners on tight budgets,” Hochkammer said. “Mudjacking to raise concrete costs about one-fourth as much as replacement.”

Kramer agrees.

“The economy has not affected our business very much,” he said. “The average cost of a project is $600 to $700, which is much easier to come up with than $5,000 to $6,000 for replacement.”

As with any type of project, the bigger the problem, the higher the cost.

But, Kramer said, “The smaller the pieces of concrete, the more difficult it is to use mudjacking. We can lift the bigger pieces, but the smaller ones will fall out. People need to contact us before the concrete begins breaking into small pieces.”

Indications of sinking concrete are hard to miss.

“The most common sign that most people see is a speed bump as they pull into their garage,” Morgan said.

It pays to shop around.

Hochkammer said: “The best place to go is the Better Business Bureau. Companies should provide at least three references. My association ( www.apgma.com) also can help if you have trouble finding a good local company.”

As summer winds down, local mudjacking businesses urge homeowners to keep a close eye on concrete surfaces.

“We will have a lot of calls after this hot weather,” Morgan said.

“The Kansas City area is good for business.”

 

No matter what the source of your foundation problems, whether it is water, settlement, heaving or a combination of these factors foundation repair is a problem that must be taken seriously. The signs can be water in the basement, cracks in drywall, cracks in basement or concrete slabs or even misaligned doors and windows. When these signs are noticed your first thought becomes – What are these repairs going to cost me? Where do I start?

Unfortunately, this question is difficult to answer and cannot be answered with one statement across the board. Do you need basement wall cracks filled? Do you need tieback anchors or carbon fiber support for bowing basement walls? Is you slab foundation sinking or heaving? There are many questions that need to be answered and must be answered by a foundation expert like a foundation engineer or a qualified foundation repair contractor. These services can range from free for an opinion to several thousand dollars for a soil boring and a professional engineers full report. Generally foundation repair contractors offer their opinions free or for a nominal charge depending on the detail. Professional engineers can be hired to protect you throughout the repair process for a few hundred dollars to a full report and soils analysis for $2,000 - $2,500.

Now that we have determined the cause of the damage and the method of repair that is best suited for your home it is time to hire a qualified foundation repair contractor. The tendency here is to look for the lowest bid. The problem is that the lowest bid does you no good if the contractor is not qualified or uses inappropriate foundation repair methods. If you hired a professional engineer he can help you with the contractor selection process and may even have a list of preferred contractors.

So, we have our engineer and he has helped select a qualified foundation repair expert. You are now able to determine a cost for your repairs. Below is a list of typical repairs and a range of costs associated with each repair method.

·         Crack Injection - $400 - $600 per crack

·         Carbon Fiber Reinforcement - $350 - $500 per strap

·         Tieback or Wall Anchor - $400 - $650 per placement

·         Underpinning Piers - $650 - $2,100 per pier (large range due to different construction standards throughout the country)

·         Sump Pump Upgrading - $700 - $1,500 

Remember the costs associated with repairing your foundation are relative to the safety issues and decreased value that would be associated with an unrepaired foundation. The overall repair bill may be $1000 - $10,000, but if not repairing your home decreases the value by more you will be money ahead. While having foundation issues may seem overwhelming, the process can be fairly painless unless you do not follow the steps above. Inappropriate repair methods or repairs performed my unqualified contractors can create larger issues than your current state of affairs. Remember, if you hire an independent professional engineer you have an expert on your side who will lookout for your best interests.

 

 

Due to significant advances over the past few years, basement waterproofing products have become much more effective and affordable than ever before. From high capacity sump pumps, efficient sump pits, polyurethane crack injection foams and carbon fiber basement wall bracing have turned basement waterproofing into a profession. With the right knowledge you can transform your basement into an extension of your homes living space.

One of the most common mistakes when attempting any basement waterproofing is treating the symptoms instead of focusing on the disease. Stop putting band aids on the visual things and start looking at the big picture. Where is the water coming from? This is the question that you must keep in mind throughout your inspection and investigation. All of the waterproofing paint in the world will not help if you have a plumbing leak or a natural spring under your basement.  

The cracks and dampness on basement walls are almost always caused by a process called hydrostatic pressure, which is caused by over saturated soil applying pressure against the foundation. Covering up the effects of this process on the inside with cheap basement waterproofing products may hide the aesthetic problems, but your walls will continue to move and eventually collapse. Interior basement waterproofing products are always best used in conjunction with an exterior drainage system. Having your exterior drain tiles checked to ensure they are clear and functional is the first step in getting a clean bill of health for your basement. If any blockages or breaks are found, it's important to have the drains repaired or replaced as quickly as possible.

While basement waterproofing products are more effective than ever, the manner in which you apply those products will be the ultimate factor in how safe and dry your basement stays. Above all, don't move ahead with your basement waterproofing project without first talking to a competent professional who you can completely trust. Asking questions and researching the best options will save you plenty of time, money and equity in your home.

 

Top 5 reasons why steel piers are the best foundation repair method:

1. Steel pier systems are engineered for underpinning homes
2. Steel piers are not affected by expanding clay soils
3. Steel piers are driven to a load bearing strata
4. Steel piers provide minimal stress to the foundation during the driving process
5. The installation process is independent of the work crew

 

For more information about steel piers and foundation repair

 

 

 

"About 38 percent of homes have mold and fungus growth due to elevated moisture." (The American Society of Home Inspectors).

Basements and concrete slabs are the largest sources of moisture in your home: The pores in concrete do not only let in moisture, but they actively draw it inside by capillary action. The average basement lets in 18 gallons of moisture each day, several times more than your bathrooms and kitchen combined!

Molds and dust mites aggravate or cause allergies and asthma, particularly, in children. The incidence of allergies and asthma has doubled in the last decade, which has been linked to the increase in air-borne molds in modern energy-efficient homes.

Your basement is not the healthiest room in the house so you need to be careful and actually do something about it when you start your new basement remodeling project.The only effective way to control biological air contaminants like molds, fungi, dust mites, and bacteria is to control the cause. Your goal: eliminate the sources of moisture and reduce humidity in your basement!

Why is waterproofing important?

A wet cellar can dramatically reduce the value of your home. Studies show that most people won't even consider buying a home that has water leaks. Selling a home with water leaks can easily result in as much as a 25% reduction in the sale price if it sales at all.

Even if you rarely have problems with dampness or flooding, it's best to solve the problem completely before doing any remodeling work. Permanent solutions can take time to implement. A good place to start is to talk to a waterproofing expert.

Proper insulation is critical to creating a comfortable, dry basement. Besides keeping out the cold, basement insulation prevents condensation. The ground stays cool year round. It in turn keeps basement walls cool. When the warmer air in the room comes in contact with all those cool walls, it has to give up some of its moisture in the form of condensation. In fact, condensation is the primary source of the moisture that causes mold and mildew problems in basements. Effective insulation separates the warm air of the room from the cool walls, thereby preventing the moisture problems that stem from condensation.

Warning signs that you have waterproofing problems in your basement

·      Mold and Mildew: Fungus that grows in damp and dark areas, and cause discoloration, or musty odors.

·      Moldy Odors: This is the result of the decay process from mold, and dry rot.

·      Peeling Paint: Peeling paint is a sign that you have moisture problems and waterproofing issues. 

·      Damp Spots on Walls: Water has absorbed through your walls. 

·      White Substance on Basement Walls: This is a chemical breakdown of the bonding agent that holds your walls together. This white substance is a sign of possible structural deterioration. 

·      Cracked Walls: Should be inspected to determine the exact cause. 

·      Rust on Appliances: Like furnaces. Rust is caused by a wet environment and is the sign of waterproofing issues. 

·      Dry Rot: Black fungus grows mostly on walls or wooden surfaces, causing wood to decay.

 

Posted by Jonathan Maguire, Atlas Piers of Atlanta 

 

Garage Column failure is a very common issue around the Atlanta metro area.  In fact, Garage Column settlement is one of the top 3 issues we see in foundation failures.  So what is it and how do you fix it?

Garage Columns are the center columns between two or more garage doors into a garage.  The Column is generally a structural element that carries either a brick load, beam load or header load.  What this means is that the column generally carries a concentrated load where other parts of the home carry a line load across a continuous footing (think of the house over the garage door openings, instead of sitting on the ground they area passed to either side of the opening).

When many houses were built, the soils for the garage were moved into the area (especially when there is a basement) and then compacted.  In many cases, the builder or grader failed to compact the soils enough to carry a concentrated load.  These poorly compacted soils can cause the garage column to settle over time – if you have a brick house then you will have a crack above the garage column as this happens.  As a result of the failure, you may also notice sheet rock cracks in any rooms above the garage.  You may see a crack on either side of the garage floor where the floor slopes towards the middle.

The fix for this failure is typically to install 1-2 helical piers.  In years past, when helical piers were not used as much, we would install resistance or push piers.  It was a dangerous process, that put unnecessary stress on the column and resulted in many companies having warranty issues.  Overall, it’s not a good idea to install a push pier under a garage column.

The typical installation for garage columns is to remove the driveway slab around the column, install 1 helical pier on either side of the column and then lift the column back in to place.  Many of the cracks in the brick veneer will close, but you may still need to repoint (fill in) the mortar for a better look.

Some of the unknowns in repairing garage columns are 1) footing or grade beam under the garage slab, 2) depth of the helical piers, 3) lift results.  Give Atlas Piers of Atlanta a call to determine what solution is best for you.

Damage to homes and commercial structures in the US is commonly related to soil characteristics, with expansive (shrink/swell) soils and collapsing soils causing the most problems. Cracking of foundations, walls, driveways, swimming pools, and roads costs us millions of dollars each year in repairs. Severe or recurring damage can lower the value of a house or property. According to the American Society of Civil Engineers, about half of the houses built in the United States each year are situated on unstable soil, and about half of these will eventually suffer some soil related damage.  This damage causes greater financial loss to property than earthquakes, flooding, hurricanes and tornados combined. 

Each spring and summer homeowners in Texas are reminded of this, as the moisture content of their expansive clay soils dramatically increases and decreases with the seasons.  The causes of soil expansion or collapse are related to the type of clay minerals in the soil and original soil density. A change in soil moisture content can cause clay minerals to swell like a sponge or to collapse as it dries.  Expansive clay soils can cause walls and foundations to crack and roads and sidewalks to warp.  

The first sign of expansive soils causing a need for foundation repairs is when you notice a misalignment of doors and windows. Another indication of soil expansion is when your patio or driveway slabs buckle or move away from the house. Non-load-bearing walls, which do not have enough weight to resist the pressure produced by expansion, typically crack before load-bearing walls do. Upon drying, expansive soil shrinks, forming large, deep cracks or "popcorn" texture in surface exposures. 

Decreasing the effects of expansive clay soils can be accomplished several ways. The application of hydrated lime to swelling soils is a common treatment that is usually effective in reducing expansion. Another effective method is to replace the expansive soils with non-expansive fill. This can only be accomplished in new construction projects. The application of protective barriers, such as geo-membranes, that surround the homes foundation help keep soil moisture levels constant and prevent the infiltration of surface water. 

For larger problems caused by expansive soils, helical piers or steel piers can be an effective solution. These piers extend the foundation below the active soil layers to a non expansive stratum of soil. The key to these types of foundation repair techniques is depth. One must bear these piers on deep soils at least three times their diameter below the expansive layers.

Poor drainage can result in ponding of water, which allows clays to absorb water, expand and cause problems. Gutters and downspouts should direct water at least 10’ away from the foundation to help maintain consistent soil moisture. Deep watering of landscaping plants and lawns by drip irrigation systems also can trigger soil expansion.

 

 

This day and age we are bombarded with Green Products and Energy Saving Devices, but do we really know what they mean or what our goal truly is? Why do we need to save energy? How will it help me? Will what I do really matter in the long run? These are the questions that we are all thinking about, now  we just need some guidance and honest answers.

It is no secret that we cannot continue to increase the demand on our current power sources at our current pace. If our demand for power continues at the current rate, without improvements, we will be in trouble in very short order. Fossil fuels, coal natural gas and petroleum cannot keep up with our current rate of usage growth. Secondary sources of power generation, Nuclear Plants and hydro- electric plants, cannot be built fast enough to compete with demand. All is not lost though.

Renewable energy production, wind, solar and geothermal can increase very quickly and without much burden to consumers. Ten years ago we rarely saw Wind Turbine farms or Solar Farms, they were few and far between – literally. Today you see 250 megawatt wind farms throughout the Midwest (http://www.tradewindenergy.com/) , that’s enough power for about 75,000 homes. Large Solar Farms (http://www.solarpower.org/) of 5-15 megawatts are no longer uncommon to see, especially in the east and west. These are current and viable options to much of our energy needs. No longer is this a pipe dream, it is technology that is available today and as production increases the cost per watt will decrease dramatically.

Now, we are fairly helpless in providing our own renewable energy. Yes we can put a solar panel on our roofs or place a wind turbine in our back yards, but will this really help? Not as much as if we decrease our individual power consumption. This is easier than you might think, as long as we all have a goal. I propose that our goal should be to decrease our individual power consumption by 25%. Yes 25%.

This raises an obvious question – how can I decrease my power consumption by 25%? Simple, start with the following nine steps:

·         Replace your home light bulbs with CFL’s (compact fluorescent lights). A single bulb will save $30 in its life, on average. They use 75% less electricity than standard bulbs. There is no down side, they save money and reduce our energy consumption. Remember your outdoor lights, CFL’s can really save money here.

·         Turn off appliances when they are not being used. I am not suggesting that you stop using appliances, only to turn off the TV when you are not watching it, shut down the computer when it is not being used and of course shut off lights in rooms that are not being occupied. A desk top computer typically uses between 60 and 200 watts of power.

·         Use cooler water when washing clothes. The cold/cold setting uses only 16% of the energy compared to the warm/cold setting. And the cold/cold setting uses only 8% of the energy required to run compared to the warm/warm setting.

·         Heating and cooling systems are a very large source of potential savings. We have all heard it for years – turn up the temperature setting on your air conditioner. Once again, you do not have to stop using it, just get a programmable thermostat and turn it up 2 degrees over “normal”. Running a fan is much more cost effective than adjusting the setting down a degree or two. Also shutting off vents in rooms not being used can save some real money.

·         Use your curtains and shades. In the summer keep them closed when the sun is shining on them. In the winter keep them open to let radiant solar energy in and then close them at night to trap the warmer air in. What could be simpler than this? You paid for blinds or curtains, use them.

·         Do not soak dishes in the sink. Yes, I said do not soak dishes in the sink. A dishwasher uses around 37% less water than doing them by hand. Quickly rinse the dish and place it in the dishwasher. It would not hurt to turn down the heat on the dishwasher cycle also.

·          Buy kids toys that do not use electricity. For every toy that uses electricity buy them one that does not. What could be simpler? Have them use their mind when playing and they might even get some exercise on top of it.

·         Plant a shade tree on the south side of your home. You will want to keep it its expected height away from your foundation to prevent potential foundation repairs (http://www.myfoundationrepairs.com/) down the road. Shade trees are an excellent insulator and will help with those summer electricity bills.

·         Consolidate trips in your car. It seems obvious but consolidating errands into a single trip will save you money. Resist the urge to run unnecessary errands. Wait until you have more than one errand to run and try to combine your trip to a single store if possible. Also, as Americans we all love the freedom that driving a car affords, but we waste money and energy by taking multiple cars to places when adding a person or two to your car would work just fine.

Now that you have read these nine easy steps to saving money you have to admit, saving money and energy is fairly simple. Common sense will take you far in your quest to save money and energy. Let the experts figure out how to add renewable energy generation and decrease our demand for foreign oil. You and your family can reduce your energy demands by taking a few simple steps, and you will save money!

 

 

In these trying times of a recession, one doesn’t like to spend money on non-essential items.  Buying a new 47” Vizio Flat Screen TV on sale is a non-essential item, having your foundation repaired is an essential item,.  Foundation problems do not fix themselves.  The signs of foundation problems might temporarily leave as the seasons change, but will return with greater possibilities of more damage.   How can a homeowner receive an “Economic Foundation Repair”?  This can be accomplished by following four easy steps: 

 

1.       Hire a Professional Engineer:

Why do you need a professional engineer?  You want a professional engineer first to look and assess your foundation problems. This will explain why it has happened and how to fix the problem.  Therefore, when it is time to solicit bids for your project all contractors need to bid what is required by the professional engineer.   How do you find a professional engineer?  Search yellowpages.com  or  yellowpages for heading Engineers, from here look under subheadings for Structural. 

 

2.       Follow recommendations of the professional engineer: 

Engineers are not doing work for the sake of doing work.  They have been trained in school as well as in the field of what is right or what is wrong.  How much experience do you have?  The recommendations should be carried out, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t question the reason why.  A good professional engineer will explain the reasons for the recommendations.   He or she is only looking out for the safety of you the customer and your home.

 

3.       Hire a professional contractor:

When hiring a professional contractor ask your professional engineer for referrals to call.  Get at least 3 to 4 quotes on the exact work the engineer has requested to be done. Make sure your contractor is licensed and insured with referrals of similar work.  Review and have the contractor explain all work he is quote.

 

4.       Proper Drainage:

After all work is completed, make sure you have the correct drainage completed.  This might involve new gutters, down spots, French drains, or foot drain and sump pumps.  The major contributing factor to foundation problems is water.  Make sure you get water away from you foundation as quickly as it appears.  If you take the steps in proper drainage you could save money down the road from having to get other parts of your foundation repaired.

 

As a homeowner, to get an economic foundation repair one must get professionals involved.  This will save you time and money in the long run by insuring your foundation is correctly repaired the first time.  The contractor you have chosen should complete the work as directed by the engineer.  It is then your obligation, as a homeowner, to make sure your house has the correct drainage.  If you have questions on the correct drainage, be sure to ask your structural engineer. If you follow the 4 steps mentioned your success rate of economic foundation repair can be achieved, as well as, preventing future foundation problems elsewhere in your home.   

 

 

During June of each year TEI takes three days to hold a school for the installation of the popular Titan Hollow Bar Micropiles. 2010 was no exception as 22 people from around the country headed to the TEI Rock Drill facility in Montrose, Co. Instructors from TEI, Con-Tech, ECP and local drill contractors presented information in a classroom setting during the morning hours. The afternoon was set aside for hands on drilling, equipment safety and repair instruction by Con-Tech and TEI employees.

Classes were held in the warehouse at TEI opposed to the previous location at the Holiday Inn. The new setting was very popular with attendees, due to the ability of stopping a discussion and taking the entire group outside and explain questions with product and equipment at everyones disposal. TEI is currently discussing the possibility of creating a full-time classroom in the warehouse that would double as an interanl company safety meeting gathering point.

Jeff Tully, ECP, once again presneted the ECP Micropier bracketing system. The underpinning system for hollowbar micropiles has gained acceptance in the industry as the premier underpinning bracketing system. The ECP Model 350MP pier bracket was jointly developed by TEI and Earth Contact Products to fill a demand for a high quality underpinning bracket that can be used in the commercial and residential micro pile markets. The patent pending bracket is based upon ECP's line of underpinning brackets for helical anchors and steel push piers along with TEI's man-portable drill rigs (MP250 and MP260). Terry Burnell of Mountain Highwall Concrete Contractors gave the system great praise and shared the success his company has had since using the Model 350MP underpinning system.

Courses were taught in load calculations, testing techniques, installation methods, and grouting. Instructors included Dan Mclean, Contech Systems, Bill Patterson, TEI Rock Drills, Jeff Tully, Earth Contact Products and more. Terry Brunel, Mountain Highwall, and Kyle Vanderburg, Mays Construction, both local contractors gave case studies on some of their local projects. On Thursday afternoon the entire class was able to visit one of Terry's job sites to watch the installation of some Titan bars in real time. Terry's crew also demonstated a tension load test on this same project. Norman Parsons headed up the load test and was very informative in his explaination of testing procedures and requirements.

 

 

For those of us that live in areas that have expansive clay soils foundation problems are as predictable as the rising sun. Expansive clay soils contain minerals such as smectite clays that are capable of absorbing water, hence they exhibit volume change. Expansive soils can cause heave and settlement depending on the time of year and overall moisture content of the soils.

Some movement is likely to occur in homes built on expansive soils.We can minimize cracking and major structural damage through maintaining more consistent soil moisture levels around our homes. Using some simple steps, outlined below, and common sense we can protect our homes from the potential devastating effects of expansive soils.

A.      Yard Drainage – All areas should drain away from the home. 5% slope within the first 10’ of the foundation and at least 1% after that.

B.      Roof and Gutter – Gutters need to be maintained and downspouts should be routed beneath grade in PVC pipe at least 10’ away from the home.

C.      Driveway and Sidewalk – Concrete areas should be slope away from the foundation and kept at or below grade to prevent ponding.

D.      Plumbing – Unexplained increases in water consumption should be investigated immediately. Plumbing leaks are a very common cause of heaving beneath structures.

E.       Subsurface Drainage – Maintain and or add foundation drain systems. Make sure pipes are free-flowing and drain into a sump basin or to daylight away from the foundation.

F.       Trees and Bushes – Trees should be 1 – 1-1/2 times their height away from the structure. Trees are a major contributor to settling foundations.

By following the above steps you will decrease the effects of expansive soils. If water is your enemy, the solution is water management. By maintaining a constant soil moisture content, your home will remain stable and unaffected by the dramatic effects if expansive soils supporting homes are allowed to become too wet or too dry.

 

As the outside temperatures start to rise and the rains slow down our focus needs to be on our foundations. Foundations are very susceptible to fluctuations in moisture level of soils. Spring brings moderate temperatures and steady rains. Summer brings high temperatures and fewer rains. These fluctuations cause movement in your homes foundation which can result in cracks in walls and sticky doors and windows.

During the spring the weather is mild and moist, which causes the soil to become saturated and swollen. These wet soils expand and become very dense around and under your foundation. Often you will notice new cracks in basement floors, drywall and foundations. These rigid surfaces show these signs of stress because of the expanding soils surrounding them.

As summer starts soils begin to dry out and shrink. Generally you will notice cracks to develop in your yard and the soil pulling away from the foundation. Over time this process happens deeper and deeper in your yard causing your foundation to settle. As the foundation starts to settle, new cracks will develop vertically in the foundation. These vertical cracks are due to differential settle or uneven settlement caused by different soil moisture levels around your home. The location of trees, flower gardens and shade will help determine the drying time and extent.

To prevent further damage caused by soil movement foundation repairs become necessary. Whether it is helical tiebacks during the spring rains or steel push piers in the heat of the summer, slowing or stopping the movement is the key to preventing major structural damages. Foundation repair methods are successful when they move the bearing surface of the foundation to soils that are not affected by moisture changes in the upper levels of soils. By bearing on deep soils the foundation remains stable and less affected by active soils.

As the temperatures increase in your area keep an eye on soil moisture levels and any new cracks in your home. These are signs of future movements and potential foundation problems. While some will tell you that you can reverse the effects of drying soils with soaker hoses, the amount of water necessary to do this is usually unpractical. A simple one inch rain that falls on a 1,500 square foot roof equals nearly 1,000 gallons of water. When you add in the water that falls on your lawn it is simple to see replacing this quantity of water becomes very difficult and expensive.

 

Groundwater management is essential not only in keeping your basement or crawl space dry, but also in avoiding damage to the foundation. Below grade structures (basements crawl space, and slab on grade foundations) are designed to resist a combination of both hydrostatic and soil pressures. The terms soil pressure (the pressures exerted upon a wall by surrounding soils) and hydrostatic pressure (pressure that is exerted by water due to its weight) for the purpose of this article are used to describe how these pressures affect the foundation of your home.

Most homeowners often do not consider foundation problems, and basement or crawl space seepage as avoidable with routine maintenance; however a great number of foundation repairs and basement waterproofing problems can be prevented by handling rainwater and surface drainage properly. Improper groundwater drainage can result in pooling water around the exterior foundation which leads to hydrostatic pressure on the foundation walls. Hydrostatic pressure can result in foundation damage, allowing foundation walls to crack, deflect inward, settle vertically, and allow water infiltration into the basement or crawl space of your home. Groundwater can enter your home in numerous ways. Common examples of water penetrations are foundation wall and slab floor cracks, tie rods, or pipe penetrations.

Groundwater management begins with an assessment of the existing site conditions. As the homeowner you have two fairly broad choices for site condition assessment. You can perform routine maintenance yourself to alleviate potential foundation damage, and control basement seepage, or seek professional advice from a contractor specializing in foundation repair and groundwater control. In the event that foundation damage is present the best course of action is a professional evaluation of both the foundation, and the site conditions contributing to the foundation damage.

 

The one thing that nobody tells you about homeownership is the major problems that can happen. There are appliances that quit working, roofs that leak and basement walls that crack or settle. Foundation settling or shifting can be caused by many things. Before any foundation repairs can be made these items have to be identified and accepted. In the medical world the old adage is “cure the disease, and then treat the symptoms”. This is applicable to foundation repair also, we need to find out what is causing the issue, why is it causing a problem and then finding a solution to the problem.

The most common reason for foundation problems is water. Often it’s a lack of moisture and sometimes it is too much water. Issues with gutters, downspouts or drain tile are common. Drainage blocks are mostly due to leaves, debris, or failure. In a few cases the blockage causes the sump pump to reuse water that erodes and saturates soils along the basement. Rain water should be diverted away from the foundation to stop hydrostatic pressure on the foundation and floors. In times of drought water might need to be applied near the foundation to maintain more consistent soil moisture content.

Many times foundation problems, followed by foundation repairs, manifest themselves in the form of serious cracking of slabs or basement floors. Basement floor slab cracking can happen for several reasons. They can be significantly thinner than the plan requested or the sub base of stone may be significantly thinner than originally called for. Heaving often ends cracking as well.

Most drywall cracks appear in the corner of doorframes or windows and result from differential movement between framing and the drywall. Some wood frame movement can be due to standard processes such as shrinkage or temperature expansion.

Homes with a crawlspace sometimes show recurring damage patterns. Often a few vertical cracks in the crawlspace open and close seasonally. Due to their shallow foundation nature these cracks grow noticeably during intense times of drought or rain. Among several potential factors , these shallow footings may rest on expansive soil that experiences more acute cycles of shrink and swell, which is often aggravated by landscaping.

Repairing damaged foundations represents the greatest engineering challenge for a known problem. Wrongly supported pilasters, concrete piers , random crack filling, misapplication of carbon fiber strips and the engineering conviction that wider footings stop settlement are  examples of potential ill-conceived foundation repair methods.

The foundation fix starts with a total foundation inquiry by a competent foundation engineer. This engineer will visit the symptoms and measure the settlement of the structure while reading the appearances of damaged foundations. Upon completing his inquiry he will then give a written outline of the problems with suggestions for a cure.

Possible cures can be steel resistance piers, helical anchors, micropiles, tie-backs, plate anchors or waterproofing. With correct drainage, when these underpinning products are installed, per manufacturer’s specifications and under the guidance of the foundation engineer you can be warranted that your problem will be solved.

So, if you are having foundation problems, don’t panic. There are solutions to help, there are qualified engineers to help you and there are competent foundation repair contractors available to enact these solutions.

 

 

So your sump pump needs replaced, who do you call? For many the first reaction is to call a plumber. Typical plumbing contractors are often the first call for many homeowners. Often they advertise that they offer this service, they claim to be qualified and they did unclog your sink that one time. Yes they were expensive but he got it unclogged. The problem – they are not specialized in replacing sump pumps nor do they understand your homes whole waterproofing system.

Your sump pump is the key to keeping your basement dry. It is what will allow you to finish off your basement without worry of potential basement flooding. When quality sump pumps, battery backup sump pumps and sump basins are installed correctly you can increase the amount of living space in your home. You will decrease humidity levels and get rid of the musty basement smell. If these are not installed correctly or cheap components are installed your investment in your basement can be ruined.

Unfortunately, plumbers often feel that sump pump installations are beneath them and so they will not size the sump pump correctly, they will not match the sump with the correct basin, they install basic plumbers grade equipment and the overall quality of the job leaves much to be desired. Throughout the industry these types of installations are referred as a sump-in-a-hole install. Plumbers do this to make a fast buck, or in many plumbers cases, many fast bucks.

Waterproofing contractors, on the other hand, are in the business to protect your home from water problems. They use better equipment, they understand sizing and application and they rely on referrals from happy homeowners. So, do not settle for a plumber – call a professional waterproofing contractor.

 

 

The ECP Sump Pit is the most efficient, safe and innovative sump pit liner available today! No longer do you have to settle for a glorified trash can or builders grade sump pit in your basement floor. This sump pit is molded from high quality, impact resistant polyethylene. This tough, seamless, corrosion proof construction together with the system’s innovative and patented bell design has set the standard for the future in wet basement drainage.  

The first thing that you will notice about the ECP Sump Pit is the unique design. This bell shaped design not only makes every sump pump system more efficient but it also increases the life of your sump pump system. The “bell” shape will keep more than twice as much water surrounding the sump pump thus preventing short cycling of your sump pump, effectively increasing the life of your sump pump system. It is efficient, affordable and guaranteed for life.

 

Benefits:

• Efficient Design

• Clear Lid for Inspection

• Built in Sump Pump Platform

• Prevents Sediment from Clogging Sump Pump

• Prevents Short Cycling of Pumps

• 33% More Total Water Capacity

 

This bell shaped sump basin also reduces soil moisture content thus reducing your basement humidity levels due to the fact that it performs as a subsurface drainage system. The perforated sides allow previously trapped ground water to freely enter the system and alleviate any potential damaging conditions. These engineered perforations create a natural well effect, which will eliminate hydrostatic pressure around and under your home creating a dry basement.

 

The use of helical anchors is making the installation of large solar panel facilities simpler and more efficient. Efficiency is one of the key ingredients for solar panels. Solar panels can be the optimal solution for you with minimal disruption to your home or business. Solar Power is a safe choice. Solar power is available in quantity at peak usage times. Current solar panels offer up to 50% more power than panels of just a few years ago. Solar panels that are more efficient provide the strongest return on your investment.  Higher efficiency means more savings per square foot. Helical anchors help make this all possible.

Helical ground anchors are engineered deep foundation members that provide high compressive and tension holding power. Their unique design can eliminate concrete foundation members that are often the source for construction delays. Helical anchors can be configured for most renewable energy applications in most soils. Installation of helical anchors is very fast and can be performed using relatively small equipment in hard to access site conditions. A verifiable load capacity can be determined for each location to assure owners of long term stability.

Efficiency, efficiency, efficiency are three things that solar power and helical anchors have in common. The fourth item is renewability. Solar power is obviously a renewable energy source that will help satisfy our energy appetite. Earth Contact Products, a major helical supplier to the Solar Industry, uses recycled steel in the production of their helical products.  According to their website, http://www.earthcontactproducts.com/Recycling.asp , “Our tubular products … are therefore at least 95-98% recyclable”. This commitment to recycling and Green Initiative makes helical anchors and solar power very Earth Friendly and Efficient.

 

 

No matter if you are having your home inspected by a professional inspector, structural contractor or professional engineer all aspects of the inspection should be handled in a similar manner. A home inspection is an in-depth visual examination of a structure - from top to bottom, inside and outside. It is an analysis of the present physical condition of the home or structure. The home inspection should be a process that the inspector and customer/homeowner communicate the findings during the inspection. Upon completion of the insopection the inspector should provide a written report on the finding of the examination and analysis.

During the inspection the homeowner/customer is key to the communication process. At no other time are the details about the property more important to convey. The better the information and history of the structure is conveyed to the inspector the more complete this visual inspection will be. It is the inspectors responsibility to educate the property owner and make sure that he understands the finding of the report. This communication is not only done through the final report but throughout the inspection.

Guidelines for home inspections:

• Communicate during the inspection
• Communication is a 2-way street
• Good and bad news must be communicated
• Educate property owner
• Remember scope of inspection
• Review final report together

 

From the pre-inspection meeting through the final report review communication is the key to success. The property owner must communicate the history of the property to give the inspector insights to renovations, repairs and problems, the inspector must communicate the scope fo the inspection, the visual clues and final analysis. Both parties have the same goal - to evaluate, assess and formulate a plan for repair. Without this communication a full proof plan cannot be obtained and such the property owner will not be completely staisfied witht the repairs.

This day and age property owners have access to more information than ever before. Not all information is good but be assured there is more information available. Websites such as www.myfoundationrepairs.com and www.mywaterproofing.com give consumers to good background and solution oriented information. This information leads to better questions and a more realistic expectation of what can be done to solve their problem.

Deciding on who is going to perform your inspection is the only question at this point. A professional engineer is always the best suited person to perform a through evaluation of your property. They have nothing to gain by steering you in a sinlge direction, they are bound to have your best interest at heart. Hiring a professional engineer is truly hiring a professional that has only your best interest in mind and has the knowlege and experience to insure your property and money is taken care of. Structural repair contractors are the next best source for inspectors. A reputable structural foundation repair contractor has personel on staff that are trained and experienced in foundation problems. Yes there are contractors out there that do not have the experience and ethics behind them to give you an unbiased report. But when it comes time to perform repairs you will be working with them whether you hire a professional engineer or home inspector to do the report. Many times the prudent thing to do is to get a reference from the contractor or have a couple contractors give you an evaluation and compare their methods and final reports.

 

Project: Washington Middle School Evansville, IN General Contractor: Danco Construction Co. Micropile Installer: United Dynamics, Inc. 2555 Cannon St New Albany, IN http://www.udipdi.com           800 359 4471

Project Information: 

Washington Middle School was being renovated and it was discovered that it was experiencing some differential settlement. Soil borings indicated the presence of fill material below the foundation. Traditional steel resistance underpinning and helical underpinning were selected originally by the design engineers as the choice of remediation. Upon review of the soil information, UDI was concerned with the capabilities of these underpinning methods due to the soils information provided. It would be possible for the helical piers to encounter cobbles/floaters in the fill thus negating the installation. The use steel resistance piers likewise could become compromised by the nature of the fill. To solve this UDI proposed the installation of small diameter hollow bar micropiles. The main advantage of the method would be the penetration of the fill material into the 'good' material below the cobbled fill.      

The passive installation of the micropiles would also allow for a greater factor of safety in strength and parameters. UDI mated Titan's 40/20mm hollow bar micropiles with Earth Contact Products MP 350 Underpinning Bracket (75,000-99,000 lbs capacity) to provide a competent underpinning system. UDI excavated the site and prepared the footings during the first day of operation. Once the brackets were mounted, UDI installed the micropiles, coring and simultaneously grouting the bars as they drilled 35' through the cobbled fill and into the good strata. Upon completion UDI’s crew was able to stabilize and lift the structure with the MP350 micropile bracketing system. By utilizing this application, UDI was able to complete the project with a three man crew in just over three days. UDI's vast experience in dealing with different underpinning techniques provided an economical solution to an otherwise difficult situation. 

 

The service industry has always relied on marketing to promote their wares and service. Sometimes the truth is stretched in these promotions to create excitement in the consumer. Often times these promoters attach themselves to keywords or terms that are in vogue. Recently this has happened in the foundation repair industry with the term – Hybrid.

 

The definition of hybrid is – the combination of two or more different things, aimed at achieving a particular goal or objective. On the surface this sounds good and globally responsible ideas pop into our minds. In 2009 hybrid congers up the idea of “Green Technologies” and smaller carbon footprints, and this is exactly why marketers use the term hybrid.

 

In the foundation repair industry hybrid pier systems are the combination of two or more differing materials to achieve an objective. Sounds great doesn’t it. But, what is the objective? And, does combining any two or more materials always create a better product? Well with out question the objective is to sell more product for the manufacturer. This may not necessarily be good for the consumer, just more expensive. Next, just because you combine two or more materials together does not mean that it will perform better that either of the materials alone. Combining oil and water does not make better oil or better water.

 

 Today we hear about combining steel and concrete to make “hybrid” foundation repair systems. They will advertise “the best of both worlds”, “the strength of steel with the benefits of concrete”. Well this sounds good but you must look past the advertising and see the engineering. Placing steel piers below concrete cylinders actually will take away the advantages of the steel piers and hamper the strength of the concrete. They say that they use steel to achieve depth (reading between the lines – concrete cylinders do not drive deep enough to supply support) and concrete in the upper soil zones to prevent corrosion. If this is the case, then why do they use steel shims at the very top of their system? Next, if the steel piers are galvanized to structural standards how are they going to corrode?

 

The next thing to think about is how will they drive the steel piers to the required depth if they are putting shallow driving concrete cylinders on top of the steel pier sections? The truth is, they will drive deeper than they were with concrete segmented piles alone but not as deep as true engineered steel piering systems.

 

Another combination of steel and concrete is to fill the steel pipe with a cement or grout mixture to “increase strength”. Sounds good, but does it work? Well let us look at it from a logic stand point (marketing people hate this), if the grout mixture is not as strong as the steel will it really increase the strength of the system? No! Adding a weaker component to a strong component will not make the system stronger it only makes it a hybrid. Do not fall for this smoke and mirrors advertising. The simple solution is to ask an engineer what they recommend. Engineers do not fall prey to slick commercials and fast talking salesmen, they look at numbers, calculations and sound engineering practices.

 

So remember, if you want to buy a hybrid car to save money on fuel and leave a smaller carbon footprint – great buy it. If you want something to support your home or commercial building permanently listen to an engineer and require the highest quality steel piering system available that incorporates a manifold lifting system.

 

 

A swale is a broad channel used for the movement and temporary storage of runoff. They can be made of concrete or formed with natural materials. Swales are the best way to move large amounts of water away from your home. Swales also can move a portion of the runoff into the ground and filter out runoff pollutants.

Drainage swales that are planted with native vegetation are commonly called bioswales. Swales can be effective alternatives to enclosed storm sewers and lined channels, where their only function is to rapidly move runoff from a developed site. On some sites, natural drainage courses may still be present and it is recommended that they be retained as part of the site drainage plan. Golf courses are probably the best example of the effective use of bioswales. In the design of golf courses, water management is key to controlling water conservation.

Many times swales can safely move water away from your foundation while conserving this same water for grass and other landscape plantings. Effectively moving water around a property can prevent foundation repairs while saving money on watering plants. In contrast to conventional curb-and-gutter concrete swales, bioswales can reduce both the rate and volume of storm water runoff around your home. Since this is achieved via absorption of runoff into the soil, swales in sandy soils will be much more effective than swales in clay soils. Swales are most effective in reducing runoff volumes for small storm events and on an annual basis can reduce storm runoff volumes by up to 15 percent in clay soils.

Drainage swales are applicable on virtually all residential sites. In suburban settings swales generally will be used in conjunction with foundation drainage. This effective combination can prevent water buildup around foundations which can cause foundation failures and water infiltration. While eliminating those areas in the yard that seemingly has constantly standing water or swampy areas, bioswales are the green way of conserving water. Take a look at your property today and devise a plan to protect your home while conserving natural water runoff.

 

According to the Farmers' Almanac, the Best Days for Home Repair are upon us. The 2009 Farmers Almanac reports that the timeframe to perform home repairs are August 21 to October 19. Do not hesitate, schedule your foundation repair and other home improvement projects to take advantage of the weather and other general conditions. Whether it be heaving, a settling basement, bowed walls or a water problem foundation problems will not go away until you focus your attention upon them.

 

Once you have had your foundation underpinned, the Farmers Almanac says that the best days to go fishing are September 3^rd thru the 6^th. You will not want to miss these days of relaxing and spending time with a friend fishing and enjoying this great time of year.

 

Other “best days” of note are listed below:

 

            Aug. 23^rd – Cut firewood, mow to increase growth, dig holes, go hunting, wax floors

 

            Aug. 24^th – Bake, cut firewood, mow to increase growth, dig holes, go hunting, wax floors, get married, buy clothes, entertain friends, host a party

 

            Aug. 29^th – Cut firewood, mow to increase growth, castrate farm animals, dig holes, wean, potty train, wash windows, advertise to sell, travel for pleasure

 

                        Sept. 4^th – Cut hair to retard growth, mow to retard growth, castrate farm animals, dig post holes, wean, quit smoking, potty train, wash wooden floors, paint, start a diet to lose weight, kill wild onions and weeds, host a party

 

            Sept. 8^th – Dry fruits and vegetables, cut hair to retard growth, mow to retard growth, pick apples and pears, quit smoking, perform demolition, wash wooden floors, start diet to lose weight

 

            Sept. 14^th – Can fruits and vegetables, harvest, get married

 

Now that your next few weeks are planned for you visit www.perfectpier.com for the newest engineered solution for foundation repairs.

 

 

The smoke and mirrors behind watering your foundation with soaker hoses.

It has been well established that foundation failures are widespread, especially in the State of Texas. Many experts claim that in most cases foundation failures are the result of an unregulated building industry, unskilled labor and builders cutting corners for the sake of higher profits or pure ignorance. For all those who live in a home built by a tract home builder this will not come as a surprise.

In recent years numerous experts around Texas have testified extensively about the increasing problem of home builders cutting cost corners and that the homes foundation is the first example given. It has also been acknowledged by engineers that home foundations are being designed to less stringent standards in order to build them cheaper. This lack of quality control has lead to unprecedented foundation repair work being needed.

Because of widespread homeowner complaints describing foundation failures, the American Society of Engineers (ASCE) asked for comments and recommendations from engineers across Texas. The consensus of those engineers who participated was to improve foundations by designing stiffer slabs. The results were astounding; the recommended guideline changes would increase foundation strength by 27% at an estimated cost of only a $1,000 for a 2,500 square foot one story home.

However, the disgraceful response by the building industry, to its critics, is that homeowners have a maintenance responsibility to “water their foundations” to protect the structural integrity of their homes. As if watering a foundation replaces sound engineering.

At a Texas building standards public hearing, a committee member described how homeowners are instructed by builders to put a soaker hose around the perimeter of the home, and never turn it off in order to keep the foundation from cracking, and to keep it stable. He then asked how much water was needed to maintain a foundation. The well respected engineer responded; you cannot maintain a foundation by watering because “you can never water enough.” The engineer went on to say that the cost of water over even a relatively short period of time would far exceed the cost of the $1,000 needed to stiffen the foundation significantly when it is initially built.

So finally we have it on good authority that the excuse for foundation failures caused by too much rain, lack of rain or trees is a fairy tale, and that these so called “Acts of God” are really acts of man in order to increase builder profits. Remember the Texas Home Builders Association has a very large lobbyist organization in Austin.

Texas has highly expansive soils, as well as many other states however, no other place but Texas are homeowners instructed to "water their foundations." Other states officials and foundation experts laugh when they hear that in Texas homeowners are blamed for foundation failures because they didn't properly water their foundations. The solution to expansive soil problems is to properly engineer foundations to withstand the adverse effects of expansive soil. This can be accomplished during construction as well as after construction is complete by trained professionals under the guidance of independent foundation engineers.

In the meantime, if nothing is done, new homebuyers are at risk, and the new home foundation problem will continue to worsen while builder profits take priority. While continuing down this road will make the new home building and foundation repair industries very profitable, the consumer will suffer.One solution for existing homes, that are having foundation problems, is to have proper foundation repairs done by trained professionals. There are several foundation repair methods that will solve current problems and they all have certain things in common. First, they install deeply beyond the active soil layers. Whether it is helical anchors or steel push piers, depth is the first priority. Secondly, correct foundation repairs use engineered systems to install. Simple bottle jacks and shims are not engineered systems, they are cheap techniques for temporary repairs. Lastly, quality foundation repairs are performed by trained foundation repair professionals under the supervision of independent engineers. Using these guidelines homeowners can be assured that they have a properly designed deep foundation system supporting their home.

In summary, do not rely on smoke and mirrors. Consult with a foundation engineer who will help develop a plan to solve your unique foundation problem.

 

 

Crawl space foundations are a very popular type of construction throughout the US and many homeowners know that many crawlspaces have one inherent drawback – sagging floors. Floors that are sagging or not level create many issues for homeowners from cracked tiles and squeaky floors to potentially failed foundations. These issues require that homeowners seek a solution for supporting these floors to original height and levelness. The problem is the many flawed systems designed to provide homeowners relief.

 

The first aspect to review when looking for foundation repair solutions is to understand the cause of the problem. In the construction of a crawlspace foundation, piers are placed below the support beams to give support for the home. These piers can be made from a variety of materials ranging from concrete blocks to wooden posts. These piers rest upon either shallow concrete pads or lightly compacted soils. Over time these piers move with the soil due to fluctuation in soils moisture, freeze – thaw cycles or soil compaction due to water intrusion. As the pier sinks into the soil the floor is no longer supported, hence sagging floors.

 

Many poor foundation repair contractors place ill-conceived solutions such as steel posts or by simply encapsulating the crawl space with a vapor barrier in an effort to control the moisture. By supplementing a crawl space foundation with steel posts, resting on the soil or even a shallow foundation (<7’ deep), is a temporary fix at best. Obviously resting a new support in the same fashion as the failed piers will not work for long. If the foundation repair or waterproofing contractor installs an encapsulation system without a deep foundation support system this will only slow the settlement without solving the problem.

 

Installing a deep foundation support system is best done by using a steel push pier system that drives steel pier pipe down to a load bearing soil well below soils that are affected by moisture. Earth Contact Products, the leading resistance pier manufacturer, has developed such a system. ECP’s Model 200 crawl space pier system is specifically designed for crawl spaces and other limited access areas. This system uses the weight of the structure to drive the pier pipe to a load bearing stratum and then using a unique manifold system the structure is simultaneously lifted and locked into place providing a solid, secure foundation for your home.

 

 

Overview of the Guidelines for theEvaluation and Repair of Residential Foundations

By the Texas Section of theAmerican Society of Civil Engineers 

Objectives

The most common purpose of an engineering evaluation of a residential foundation is to assess its performance. This involves observation and evaluation of cosmetic(nonstructural) distress and structural damage. The evaluation may also provide opinions of probable causes of distress or damage, assessment of risk of further damage, recommendations for remedial measures, and cost estimates. If the evaluation determines that remedial measures are appropriate, the engineer may be asked to provide the design and construction documents. 

QUALIFICATIONS OF THE ENGINEER

The evaluation and repair design shall be performed by a professional engineer licensed in the State that the work is being performed. Engineers in responsible charge of this type of work must be competent to apply scientific and engineering education, training, knowledge, skill and experience to the investigation and analysis of constructed facilities. This determines the cause and extent of diminished performance and the means of remediation. Engineers should be competent in the related disciplines or should retain outside consultants as needed. 

Professional Ethics

It is essential to avoid conflicts of interest to maintain the credibility of the evaluation investigation. The evaluating engineer must demonstrate qualities of character that will ensure impartiality. These qualities include objectivity, confidentiality, honesty and integrity. 

LEVELS OF INVESTIGATION

The engineer should recommend an appropriate level of investigation to fulfill the objective of the evaluation. However, the scope of services shall be jointly established and agreed to by both the client and engineer. The engineer should personally visit the site and be in responsible charge of the investigative activities. If requested by the client, the engineer may only provide evaluation of reports by others, but this should be described as consultation, not investigation. For the purpose of aiding the client in determining the type of evaluation desired or actually performed, the following three levels of investigation are offered as guidelines. 

Level A

This level of investigation shall be clearly identified as a report of first impressions and shall not imply that any higher level of investigation has been performed. This level of investigation will typically include, but is not restricted to:

 

 1.   Interview the occupant, owner and client if possible, regarding a history of the property and performance of  the structure                                              

 2. Request from the client and review the provided documents regarding the foundation, such as construction drawings, geotechnical reports, previous                    testing and inspection reports, and previous repair information

3. Make visual observations during a physical walk-through

4. Observe factors influencing the performance of the foundation

5. If requested by the client, provide a written report, containing at least the following:                        

a. scope of services

b. observations, site characteristics, and data deemed pertinent by the engineer

c. discussion of major factors influencing foundation performance and rationale in reaching conclusions concerning the subject residence

d. conclusions and any recommendations for further investigation and remedial or preventative measures 

Level B

This level of investigation should include a written report including the items listed above for a Level A inspection and also the following items:

 1. A determination of relative foundation elevations, considering floor finishes, in sufficient detail to represent the shape of the foundation or floor   adequately.

 2. A drawing showing relative elevations  

Level C

This level of investigation shall include the items listed above for Level A and Level B inspections and additional services, testing and related reports deemed

appropriate by the Engineer. These may include, but are not limited to, the following:

 

 1. Site specific soil sampling and testing

 2. Plumbing testing

 3. Material testing

 4. Steel reinforcing survey

 5. Post tensioning cable testing 

This level of investigation should also include a more detailed level of reporting, which may include the following:

 

 1. Scaled drawings

 2. Description of factors that affect soil moisture

 3. Observations of cut and fill

 4. Tree survey

 5. Photographs

 6. Detailed distress survey

 

 

If you want a dry basement and a sound foundation, you must have an adequate foundation drainage system. The water content in the soil surrounding your house can fluctuate seasonally. There is always a point at which you can dig and hit water. Geologists often refer to this as the water table. This water table rises and falls in response to the amount of precipitation in any given time period. The water table in many parts of the country can rise to within a few feet of the surface during wet spells. Water will take the path of least resistance. If there is no exterior waterproofing, water can go sideways through a crack in your foundation, or it can go down alongside your foundation into a pipe. I'm sure that you will agree that it is a better idea for the water to go down into the pipe.

Exterior foundation drainage systems, which are installed properly, serve an important roll. Foundation drain tile systems are the means by which groundwater can be transported away from your basement. Keeping water from pooling around your foundation is the most important step in keeping you home dry and your foundation stable. Water that is trapped around or under your home is the number one reason so many foundation repairs are needed across the country.

Interior drainage systems work extremely well for many customers. Depending on your circumstances, interior drainage may be an effective solution. Many water control system companies claim to be waterproofers and only offer this method as a solution to every basement water problem. If a company proposes opening the floor on the inside for any reason, they are offering an interior drainage system. Only an exterior excavation to the footer or bottom of the foundation accomplishes waterproofing. Everything else is water diversion. Never only contract for an interior water control system if dampness, seepage, and or cracking on the walls are your concern, as this may result in further damage to your foundation. In combination with exterior waterproofing and or structural repairs interior drainage can be very effective.

Be very care of companies that only offer and push interior drainage as the only solution to your water problem. While a good interior drainage system does a very good job of removing water from under your slab and diverting water vapor that penetrates walls they do nothing to solve the original problem of water forming around your foundation causing hydrostatic pressure and potential structural damage.

 

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When it comes to foundation repair work on your home, there are several choices that need to be made. These choices range from using helical piers or steel push piers, waterproofing or underpinning, concrete segmented piles or steel push piers or even eccentric vs. concentric piers. You will hear proponents for each different type of foundation repair underpinning system, you will also hear many different reasons why some steel push piers are better than other steel push piers. Wading through all of this information is the key to finding the right method and means of repairing your home. Here we will focus on the differences in  piering systems, specifically eccentric piers verses concentric piers. First we must define the terms eccentric and concentric. An eccentric piering systems is one who’s pile axis is not in line with its applied load. A concentric pier is a pier bracket and pile who’s axis is in line with the applied load. Below is an example of both an eccentric and a concentric pier.

                                                                                                            

                                           Eccentric Push Pier                                           Concentric Push Pier  

Next, you must categorize these piering systems. 

                                               Eccentric Piers                                   Concentric Piers            

                                               Steel Push Piers                                    Steel Push Piers           

                                               Helical Piers                                         Segmented Concrete Piers           

                                               Micro Piers                                          Hybrid Piers 

For foundation repair applications, helical piers are always eccentric in nature. The helical sections are installed through the bracketing system from the side of the pier. Micropiers are also installed through the bracketing systems from the side of the pier. The major reason for this is the relatively large equipment used to install these types of systems cannot fit below the wall or footing.  

Segmented Concrete Piles are installed directly below the footing and then a bracket or platform is installed on top of the pile to transfer the applied load to the pier. Hybrid piers are the latest concept in underpinning products. These pier systems generally use concrete filled steel pier sections installed directly below the footing and then either a steel bracket or concrete block is placed on top to transfer the load to the pier. These hybrid piers are marketed as the best of both worlds, in reality they are compromise of both worlds. They do not provide the full benefits of steel piers and they have the same negatives as the segmented concrete piles. 

As noted above, steel push piers can be eccentric or concentric in nature. Each manufacturer generally determines which design best fits their manufacturing and design capabilities and sticks with that style. Only Earth Contact Products has successfully designed and engineered both types of systems for residential use. 

What is better, eccentric or concentric? Well that is the $64,000 question. There is no real answer, because both, if designed properly and applied properly, will work well. While an eccentric designed pier requires more engineering and tighter quality control, not only can they work well but some have worked well for over 30 years. This is not to say all eccentric piers have good engineering behind them. Many are manufactured around cost constraints opposed to good engineering. Concentric steel piers are a lower tech solution that has many application advantages over its rival, the eccentric pier. They can be installed with less footing modification, they can be installed in lower headroom areas and they require less installation equipment to use. 

Concentric piers are great for crawl spaces due to the fact that a tall drive stand is not needed to drive the pier sections. For eccentric piers to be used in a crawl space you will need either a fairly deep crawl space or you will have to cut through the flooring to make room for the drive stand. Concentric piers are also not affected by deep brick ledges or other obstacles like their competition.  

The down side to most concentric piers is in their lifting or stabilization of structures. Most concentric piers do not allow room for anything more than a bottle jack (car jack) for lifting. They are pressured up with the bottle jack and then simple shims are placed between the bracketing system and the footing,  the footing is then lowered onto the pier system. Bottle jacks are very undesirable for a couple of reasons. First, the structure is over lifted to allow for the steel shims (similar to segmented concrete piles). Next, with bottle jacks, the installer has no way to measure or control the hydraulic pressure applied to the structure. Most engineers frown on the use of bottle jacks for structural repairs. 

There is only one concentric pier available, that uses a hydraulic manifold lifting system and is continuously adjustable, on the market today. The Earth Contact Products Model 200 uses a hydraulic manifold system, the same system used on their eccentric push piers. This system was designed by engineers for engineers to allow for critical infinite adjustability and control in lifting structures. The Model 200 also uses a patented adjusting platform that does not require over lifting or shims. This unique combination has created large demand and acceptance of this particular concentric piering system. 

As you can see there are many variables and styles of underpinning pier systems available. So how do you choose the one that is right for your home? This is the easy part. First, hire an engineer and let him help determine your foundation repair needs. Then take your new found knowledge out into the market and wade through the variety of foundation repair contractors and find one that installs a quality piering system that has been designed and engineered to perform on your home. No bottle jacks, no shims, no shallow installation methods, just good engineering and manufacturing by a quality foundation repair company. Now, whether you are in Dallas, Texas, Kansas City, Kansas or Columbus, Ohio get out there and get your home fixed correctly and permanently.

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Having water in your basement is never a good thing. From structural deterioration to mold growth, wet basements create a number of hproblems for your home. When you have wet basement problems, it's critical to get your basement dry and keep it that way. In addition to standard basement waterproofing strategies, you may want to consider a whole house dehumidifier. Increasing ventilation and improving the overall air quality of your home, these systems can help ensure your basement stays dry!

Basement Waterproofing

Musty odors? Visible mold and mildew? Buckling or bowing walls? You likely have a basement moisture problem. Even when you don't see water, any of these problems is a sign of a leaky foundation. Damaging moisture is seeping into your home, so you need to attack it at its source! There are a variety of basement waterproofing methods and resources, so be sure that your contractor has tailored your water remediation to suit your home. The most important aspect of any basement drying solution is to identify the moisture's entry point and eliminate it. A number of options are available for sealing your basement and removing water, including:

• Interior drain tiles
• Sump pump installation
• Battery or back up sump pumps
• Vinyl wall sheeting
• Crawl space encapsulation
• Foundation crack repair
• Steel Push Piers
• Helical Tiebacks
• Wall Plate Anchors

 Foundation Repair

Many times the water that is entering your home can also cause structural foundation problems. The moisture causes soils to consolidate under your foundation which in turn causes settlement. This settlement can be resolved with steel push piers or helical piers mounted under the footing transferring the weight of the structure from these consolidating soils to these newly installed piles.

So if you have signs of water in your basement contact a professional to help solve your homes problems. From waterproofing to foundation repairs solving water problems will make your home healthier and more structurally sound. Because...it's your home!